During the postwar Poland was a battleground. 90% of Warsaw was completely destroyed. Many insurgents were persecuted and imprisoned. It was not uncommon for them to be killed in a martial law sanction. During the 40ś and 50s communism army waited until the Polish and Nazis battled it out. The communist came in from the back and accused the Polish (who had a small army called the Home Army) of committing treason and cooperating with the Nazis. The army consisted of young men and women with homemade weapons. The communist accused them of this in order to justify their later attack on the Polish without coming across as playing cheap.
During the occupation the Germans imprisoned 100,000 Polish and 37,000 died. This information was from the Warsaw Rising museum. It was very informative with colorful interactive displays.
Nowadays, Warsaw is a industrialized capital city. There are many museums and public gardens. I only had a day to sightsee, but I liked what it had to offer.
I just made it to Berlin. Today I am going on an all day walking tour. More to come on my weekend in Lodz.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Thursday, October 16, 2008
Krakow
I woke up early this morning had coffee and mueslix and checked the train schedule for Warsaw. I found a fast train that takes only 2 1/2 hours. The other trains are cheaper, but can take up to 8 hours. I decided to book the faster one so I would have time to roam around Krakow. I checked out of the hostel and walked over to the train station to lock up my backpack and buy my ticket. One of the best secrets I've learned is that Europe train stations have secure lockers for storing your belongings. Knowing this makes sightseeing a lot more bearable.
Wawel's Castle
Krakow's main attraction is the Wawel Hill where the Wawel cathedral and castle reside. I visited both locations and wasn't too impressed by the interior of the castle. The beauty in this case was only seen in its exterior. The Wawel cathedral had a crypt where all the Polish royalties are buried. King Kazimier's tomb was there, which dates back to the 13th century. Most of the tombs are made out of stone and are garnished with medieval skulls and cross bones.
Jewish Quarters- Kazimierz
After my self-guided tour of the castle I walked down to the Jewish Quarters. The Jews in Krakow were expelled and forced to resettle inside these small Jewish quarters. Kazimierz was named after the King who tossed the Jews out of Krakow in the 13th century.
I've been inside most sectors of Christian churches, mosques, but haven't been into a synagogue. Today was my first experience. I went inside one of the oldest synagogues in Poland called Remuh Synagogue. It is from the 16th century and looked more like an old house than a synagogue. Outside of the synagogue was a Jewish cementary with old Renaissance gravestones. The cementary was enclosed with a cobblestone wall.
I came across a little hole in the wall restaurant that advertised homemade periogis in large font written with magic markers. A Polish girl helped me figure out what to have with my limited funds. I could only afford desert and ate banana filled periogis with chocolate sauce. I was really hungry and gobbled them up and walked around for awhile more.
There was a large gathering at one of the main cathedrals by the city center. Hundreds of candles and lanterns were infront of a huge poster of Pope John Paul II. There was a stage with an orchestra getting ready to perform. The stage surrounded by blue lights in structures that looked like reverse umbrella frames. I asked a girl watching the event what all this was for. She told me that today was the 30th anniversary of when Pope John Paul was annotated. I wanted to stay longer and listen to the orchestra, but needed to get back to the train station.
Along my way back I asked a girl if I was on the right path. She said she would walk me to the train station. All I needed for her to do was point me in the right direction, but she insisted otherwise. She and I walked to the train station making small talk. We walked through Rynek Glowny (the main market square), which is Europe's largest medieval square and she pointed out the smallest cathedral. It was so tiny and only held 20 people. A direct contrast was St. Mary's cathedral located in the northeastern corner of the square. I went in the church before and it has some of the finest sculptures I've seen on my travels. I made it to the train station and said thank you. This act of kindness is generally what I've been experiencing in the four days I've been in Poland. Everyone is friendly here.
When I arrived in Warsaw it was pouring. A car went over a puddle and splashed me with dirty cold water. I was soaking wet by the time I reached the hostel.The hostel that I booked for online told me they never received my email and were fully booked. I walked along and lucked out by finding another hostel 5 minute walk from the first hostel. I am here now and the hostel's computer is slow and clunky, but at least it works. Tomorrow I will run around Warsaw to see Chopin's heart displayed in a cathedral in town and visit the Rising History museum.
Wawel's Castle
Krakow's main attraction is the Wawel Hill where the Wawel cathedral and castle reside. I visited both locations and wasn't too impressed by the interior of the castle. The beauty in this case was only seen in its exterior. The Wawel cathedral had a crypt where all the Polish royalties are buried. King Kazimier's tomb was there, which dates back to the 13th century. Most of the tombs are made out of stone and are garnished with medieval skulls and cross bones.
Jewish Quarters- Kazimierz
After my self-guided tour of the castle I walked down to the Jewish Quarters. The Jews in Krakow were expelled and forced to resettle inside these small Jewish quarters. Kazimierz was named after the King who tossed the Jews out of Krakow in the 13th century.
I've been inside most sectors of Christian churches, mosques, but haven't been into a synagogue. Today was my first experience. I went inside one of the oldest synagogues in Poland called Remuh Synagogue. It is from the 16th century and looked more like an old house than a synagogue. Outside of the synagogue was a Jewish cementary with old Renaissance gravestones. The cementary was enclosed with a cobblestone wall.
I came across a little hole in the wall restaurant that advertised homemade periogis in large font written with magic markers. A Polish girl helped me figure out what to have with my limited funds. I could only afford desert and ate banana filled periogis with chocolate sauce. I was really hungry and gobbled them up and walked around for awhile more.
There was a large gathering at one of the main cathedrals by the city center. Hundreds of candles and lanterns were infront of a huge poster of Pope John Paul II. There was a stage with an orchestra getting ready to perform. The stage surrounded by blue lights in structures that looked like reverse umbrella frames. I asked a girl watching the event what all this was for. She told me that today was the 30th anniversary of when Pope John Paul was annotated. I wanted to stay longer and listen to the orchestra, but needed to get back to the train station.
Along my way back I asked a girl if I was on the right path. She said she would walk me to the train station. All I needed for her to do was point me in the right direction, but she insisted otherwise. She and I walked to the train station making small talk. We walked through Rynek Glowny (the main market square), which is Europe's largest medieval square and she pointed out the smallest cathedral. It was so tiny and only held 20 people. A direct contrast was St. Mary's cathedral located in the northeastern corner of the square. I went in the church before and it has some of the finest sculptures I've seen on my travels. I made it to the train station and said thank you. This act of kindness is generally what I've been experiencing in the four days I've been in Poland. Everyone is friendly here.
When I arrived in Warsaw it was pouring. A car went over a puddle and splashed me with dirty cold water. I was soaking wet by the time I reached the hostel.The hostel that I booked for online told me they never received my email and were fully booked. I walked along and lucked out by finding another hostel 5 minute walk from the first hostel. I am here now and the hostel's computer is slow and clunky, but at least it works. Tomorrow I will run around Warsaw to see Chopin's heart displayed in a cathedral in town and visit the Rising History museum.
Krakow to Warsaw
Going to the substantial castle, (Castle Wawel) that stands on a big hill in Old Town today. Then to the Jewish Quarters to visit the Old Synagogue from the 15th century and to a museum or two. In the early evening I'm taking a fast train to Warsaw. I plan to only be in Warsaw for a day. I don't have a desire to go except to see the Warsaw Rising Museum and learn more about the tragic history of Warsaw during wartime.
Wednesday, October 15, 2008
Notes from Auschwitz- Click here for pictures
"The history that does not remember is bound to live through it again." - George Santayana
I went to Auschwitz today. I was worried about how it would affect me. I have a low threshold for handling human suffering probably a result of spending the summer watching over a sick Grandmother. Though, I am glad I went. I understand why it is important for everyone to see. It made the idea of the present day genocide in Darfur more real to me and makes me want to learn more about how I can do my part to help. I transcribed my notes on Auschwitz below.
The concentration camp was founded in June 1940 in the suburbs of the city known as Oswiecim, which Germans occupied during World War II. The Germans changed the name of the city of Oswiecim to Auschwitz and gave it the same name as the concentration camp.
The camp was divided into 3 parts:
Auschwitz I -Earliest Section
Auschwitz II (Birkenau) - was later built when I ran out of room
Auschwitz III (Monowitz)- built when II was filled. It was completely destroyed by Nazis before the liberation by Soviets.
Auschwitz (as a whole) Has over 40 subcamps. Poles were the first to be imprisoned and perished in Auschwitz. Polish prisoners were political prisoners mostly the Polish intellects were kept. They included doctors, lawyers, writers, and even priest. 7,500 Poles were killed. 23,000 Romas were prisoned and only 2,000 survived. Later the camp imprisoned Soviet prisoners of war, Roma (Gypsies), and other prisoners and nationalities. The Jews were the last to be prisoned here.
There was a prison set up for certain prisoners. One of the punishments was to be starved to death. A man was sentenced to starvation. He pleaded for his life and a Polish priest said he would take his place. The guards agreed. According to survivors the priest lasted for two weeks. The guards got impatient and shoot the priest. The man who was supposed to be in the starvation prison survived the camp and lived up until 13 years ago. There are memorials all over the camp for the priest.
Extermination of Jews
Began in 1942, Auschwitz became the largest mass murder in all of human history, which was committed against European Jews as part of the Nazi's plan for complete extermination. Nazis murdered 6 million Jews. Their goal was to kill 11 million. 1944 was the biggest year of extermnation. 8,000 people arrived everyday and were killed.
Liberation
Nazis burned all the records before the liberation. They tried to destroy all evidence of their crimes. Auschwitz was liberated on Jan 27th, 1945.
Museum opened July 2nd, 1947. Since Poland entered into the EU for years ago they get over a million visitors a year.
The first thing you see when you enter Auschwitz is a giant that says in German,
"Work sets you free." This was only one of the lies that the people entering into Auschwitz were told.
Prisoners had several jobs including preparing food, burning dead bodies, and sorting luggage. No matter what conditions the prisoners worked 11 hours a day and were allowed to use the toilet twice. Their meal consisted of cold coffee for breakfast, soup with rotten vegetables for lunch, and a small piece of bread for dinner. Hunger and hardwork primarily were the main methods of death of the prisoners.
Hitler was elected in a free election. He had the first camp called Dachau built outside of Munich. Auschwitz was not first a extermination camp. It started off as a concentration camp, which means the prisoners were workers. Then later became a extermination camp. There are 6 extermination camps in Poland. By the time they had Auschwitz built the Nazis were very knowledgable about running concentration camps.
Nazis wanted to create a master race by getting rid of what they thought were inferior people. Jews were the first in line then would come the Slavic people. The Jews were deported from every European country. 1,000,100 Jews were sent to Auschwitz and 90% were killed.
There were only a few photographs taken. The purpose of these photographs were unknown. The Nazis wanted to keep the extermination a secret from the rest of the world. 200 photos were found by survivor named Lilie Jacob Meire (Meyer). She accidently found the photos after her liberation while searching for clothes to wear.
Jews were deported to concentration camp from all over Europe. People transported from Greece took up to 17 days without food or water. The people were told to bring their most valuable possessions and the items needed to survive.
Women and children were seperated from men then the guards determined who was fit to work and those who weren't were exterminated. In the beginning those unfit went to the gas chambers. They were told they were going to take showers. The Nazis had set up fake waterheads and water pipes to convince the Jews. This wa done so that there wasn't mass panic. They were told that they were going tobe safe and would be with their families after they were clean. The gas chambers held 1,500 people at a time. Then the Nazis dropped 5-7 kilograms of Cyclone B in 8-9 canisters into the room. 15 minutes everyone was dead. The death was very painful. The Polish Jews were the only ones that knew what was really going on. They knew because of rumors and were the only ones who tried to fight.
The bodies were shaven and all the gold teeth were removed. Then the bodies were burned. They burnt the bodies in an open air cremation because cremation units were very inefficient. The human hair was used in the textile business to make outfits, uniforms, and wigs. After liberation Russian soliders found 7 tons of human hair.
Allies knew about Auschwitz since 1944. They had aerial photos of the camp. Some prisoners who escaped had told the allies. The allies didn't do anything at all. Russian solidiers found a lot of proof of extermination. Rooms in the exhibit halls were filled with 80,000 shoes, glasses, prosthetic legs, bowls, brushes, etc.
200,033 children were sent here and must of them were executed. There were even medical experiments on the children. If the child had blue eyes and blonde hair they were brought to Germanization centers. Later to be adopted by families from Germany.
Camp uniforms were marked with different triangles to identify what group of religion or race the prisoner belonged to. Jews had a red/yellow triangle. Most of the Polish prisoners were not Jewish. In one exhibit there were pictures of the first to come to Auschwitz. This record indicated date of birth and date of death. German criminals were used as the supervisors. These criminals were mostly convicted murderers. Only 400,000 prisoners were registered , 200,00 were Jews fit for work. Most the otheres were Polish political prisoners. Everyone that was registered was murdered.
The Nazis wanted to find the most efficient way of execution. The first people to be tested with Cyclone B were 600 Russian prisoners. It took over two days to get the right amount of the gas to work during the trial. May 27th, 1942 - 168 Polish actors were executed by firing squad.
(Here's an interesting link http://blog.washingtonpost.com/the-trail/2008/05/27/obamas_uncle_and_the_liberatio.html)
Roll call was done twice a day. It was another form of punishment. Sometimes it lasted 19 hours without food or water.
8,000 guards served at Auschwitz. Most of them were German and Austrians. There were some who were Yugoslavian, but they were on watch on the outside.
The mass exterminator incharge of the cremators was Rudolf Hoss. He lived right next to the cremators with his wife and children. His wife was reported to have described Auschwitz as paradise because they were not risking their life from the war going on outside. Hoss was executed as a war criminal. He was hung infront of the cremators.
In 1943 the gas chambers were turned into bomb shelters for the Nazis troops.
When the liberation finally happened in 1945 there were only 7,000 prisoners. The reason there were such few prisoners was because most of them were transfered to other German concentration camps. The Germans knew that the war was coming to an end and thought they could use the prisoners to help them win. Most of the solidiers were forced to walk and most died. This was called the "Death March."
17 days after the liberation of Nazi Germany, Poland was invaded by the Soviet Army. Only 15 years ago did Poland gain its independence. 30,000 people were killed after WW2.
Genocides are still going on in present history. Bosnia, Rwanda, Argentina, and currently in Darfur.
Here's a link to more information about
Auschwitz: http://www.auschwitz.org.pl/
and the history of genocides: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genocides_in_history
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Krakow, Poland (Wonderful First Impression of Poland)
I can't believe the difference from non-EU countries to EU. It is a big contrast. After walking across the border, I had to wait in line with extremely pushy Ukrainians most of them smuggling in cigarettes and booze. It felt like we were sheep trapped in a small cage. People shook their heads at me and another girl (Sara from NYC) when they found out we were American, which meant that it would take two extra minutes to speak with the border guard than it would for them. When I got to Poland territory I checked the schedule for the train only to find out the next train left at 10:30pm. One of the girl's at the hostel in Lyiv told me it ran every hour and that the trip to Krakow takes about three and a half hours from the Polish border town. She got the latter part right. Feeling tired and low, I walked a short distance to the bus station to see if taking a bus would be any faster.
A Polish backpacker came up and asked if Sara and I needed a ride to Krakow. He said he was going that way and knew how hard it was traveling by train. At first, I was weary and said we would be alright. We started talking to him and I could tell instantly he was sincere and a very nice man. His car seat in the backseat made me believe it was more than safe. We accepted his offer. He had just been hiking in the Carpathian mountains with some of his Ukrainian friends. Robert asked if we were hungry and we both said yes. We went to a small Polish bar and had Polish borscht and periogis. Robert paid for both of our meals telling us it was customary for him to buy us our first Polish meal.
After dinner we walked to where his car was parked at his wife's Grandmother's house. He told us we needed to come in and meet her. She was 89 years old and had been living in the loft for about 60 years just after WW2! She made us hot tea and gave us some wafers. She said that Sara and I were the first Americans to ever visit her. I could tell she wanted to talk to us, but since neither one of us knew Polish we just exchanged smiles and nods. Robert told us she used to be a gymnasitic coach and ski instructor. Robert told us that her late husband helped fill the graves after the war ended. She talked only briefly about the war. When we left her house she gave both Sara and I a big hug and kiss and gave Robert sandwiches for the road trip.
During the ride Robert talked about his favorite bands and how he got into Punk during the fall of communism. He also told us he studied French literature in Paris for three years and he met his Polish wife who was also studying abroad. It was a fun car trip even though I got a bit car sick.
Going to Aushwitz today. I want to see it first and then spend sometime doing more uplifting activities. More to come from Poland.
A Polish backpacker came up and asked if Sara and I needed a ride to Krakow. He said he was going that way and knew how hard it was traveling by train. At first, I was weary and said we would be alright. We started talking to him and I could tell instantly he was sincere and a very nice man. His car seat in the backseat made me believe it was more than safe. We accepted his offer. He had just been hiking in the Carpathian mountains with some of his Ukrainian friends. Robert asked if we were hungry and we both said yes. We went to a small Polish bar and had Polish borscht and periogis. Robert paid for both of our meals telling us it was customary for him to buy us our first Polish meal.
After dinner we walked to where his car was parked at his wife's Grandmother's house. He told us we needed to come in and meet her. She was 89 years old and had been living in the loft for about 60 years just after WW2! She made us hot tea and gave us some wafers. She said that Sara and I were the first Americans to ever visit her. I could tell she wanted to talk to us, but since neither one of us knew Polish we just exchanged smiles and nods. Robert told us she used to be a gymnasitic coach and ski instructor. Robert told us that her late husband helped fill the graves after the war ended. She talked only briefly about the war. When we left her house she gave both Sara and I a big hug and kiss and gave Robert sandwiches for the road trip.
During the ride Robert talked about his favorite bands and how he got into Punk during the fall of communism. He also told us he studied French literature in Paris for three years and he met his Polish wife who was also studying abroad. It was a fun car trip even though I got a bit car sick.
Going to Aushwitz today. I want to see it first and then spend sometime doing more uplifting activities. More to come from Poland.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Lyiv, Ukraine
They say Lyiv is the new Prague, the Florence of the East, or even comparable to Paris. All these comparisons are crass and a cheap way to attract tourist. It is a city of its own decadence. Lyiv has a rich history which is most noticeable in its architecture and churches (especially in the Armenian church). And even more fascinating is its the least Soviet city that I have visited in Ukraine.
The city center is popular amongst locals and has plenty of interesting museums along cobblestone roads. However, it is rough around the edges. If you travel outside the center you will be in contact with poverty, plenty of drunks, Romes, and busy roads with endless amounts of construction.
I walked around the city and went to the "Under Black Eagle" Pharmacy Museum filled with 8000 old bottles and formulas. The museum had a functional pharmacy that had been open since the 60's. The pharmacy itself was on the grounds of the old pharmacy that was run by a Ukrainian pharmacist named Mykhaylo Terletsky during the 1700's. I bought a bottle of the unique "Zalizne Vyno," or iron wine, which they make at the pharmacy from an ancient recipe.
There is an international theatrical festival called Golden Lion. I lucked out and got tickets to the Ukrainian ballet and watched a performance in the S. Krushelnytska Opera house.
I am leaving to Krakow tomorrow. They say that the border check takes about 3-4 hours if you take the bus or train. I am planning to walk across because its a lot faster and then I will hop on a bus on the Polish side. It will be an adventure.
The city center is popular amongst locals and has plenty of interesting museums along cobblestone roads. However, it is rough around the edges. If you travel outside the center you will be in contact with poverty, plenty of drunks, Romes, and busy roads with endless amounts of construction.
I walked around the city and went to the "Under Black Eagle" Pharmacy Museum filled with 8000 old bottles and formulas. The museum had a functional pharmacy that had been open since the 60's. The pharmacy itself was on the grounds of the old pharmacy that was run by a Ukrainian pharmacist named Mykhaylo Terletsky during the 1700's. I bought a bottle of the unique "Zalizne Vyno," or iron wine, which they make at the pharmacy from an ancient recipe.
There is an international theatrical festival called Golden Lion. I lucked out and got tickets to the Ukrainian ballet and watched a performance in the S. Krushelnytska Opera house.
I am leaving to Krakow tomorrow. They say that the border check takes about 3-4 hours if you take the bus or train. I am planning to walk across because its a lot faster and then I will hop on a bus on the Polish side. It will be an adventure.
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