Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Krakow, Poland (Wonderful First Impression of Poland)
I can't believe the difference from non-EU countries to EU. It is a big contrast. After walking across the border, I had to wait in line with extremely pushy Ukrainians most of them smuggling in cigarettes and booze. It felt like we were sheep trapped in a small cage. People shook their heads at me and another girl (Sara from NYC) when they found out we were American, which meant that it would take two extra minutes to speak with the border guard than it would for them. When I got to Poland territory I checked the schedule for the train only to find out the next train left at 10:30pm. One of the girl's at the hostel in Lyiv told me it ran every hour and that the trip to Krakow takes about three and a half hours from the Polish border town. She got the latter part right. Feeling tired and low, I walked a short distance to the bus station to see if taking a bus would be any faster.
A Polish backpacker came up and asked if Sara and I needed a ride to Krakow. He said he was going that way and knew how hard it was traveling by train. At first, I was weary and said we would be alright. We started talking to him and I could tell instantly he was sincere and a very nice man. His car seat in the backseat made me believe it was more than safe. We accepted his offer. He had just been hiking in the Carpathian mountains with some of his Ukrainian friends. Robert asked if we were hungry and we both said yes. We went to a small Polish bar and had Polish borscht and periogis. Robert paid for both of our meals telling us it was customary for him to buy us our first Polish meal.
After dinner we walked to where his car was parked at his wife's Grandmother's house. He told us we needed to come in and meet her. She was 89 years old and had been living in the loft for about 60 years just after WW2! She made us hot tea and gave us some wafers. She said that Sara and I were the first Americans to ever visit her. I could tell she wanted to talk to us, but since neither one of us knew Polish we just exchanged smiles and nods. Robert told us she used to be a gymnasitic coach and ski instructor. Robert told us that her late husband helped fill the graves after the war ended. She talked only briefly about the war. When we left her house she gave both Sara and I a big hug and kiss and gave Robert sandwiches for the road trip.
During the ride Robert talked about his favorite bands and how he got into Punk during the fall of communism. He also told us he studied French literature in Paris for three years and he met his Polish wife who was also studying abroad. It was a fun car trip even though I got a bit car sick.
Going to Aushwitz today. I want to see it first and then spend sometime doing more uplifting activities. More to come from Poland.
A Polish backpacker came up and asked if Sara and I needed a ride to Krakow. He said he was going that way and knew how hard it was traveling by train. At first, I was weary and said we would be alright. We started talking to him and I could tell instantly he was sincere and a very nice man. His car seat in the backseat made me believe it was more than safe. We accepted his offer. He had just been hiking in the Carpathian mountains with some of his Ukrainian friends. Robert asked if we were hungry and we both said yes. We went to a small Polish bar and had Polish borscht and periogis. Robert paid for both of our meals telling us it was customary for him to buy us our first Polish meal.
After dinner we walked to where his car was parked at his wife's Grandmother's house. He told us we needed to come in and meet her. She was 89 years old and had been living in the loft for about 60 years just after WW2! She made us hot tea and gave us some wafers. She said that Sara and I were the first Americans to ever visit her. I could tell she wanted to talk to us, but since neither one of us knew Polish we just exchanged smiles and nods. Robert told us she used to be a gymnasitic coach and ski instructor. Robert told us that her late husband helped fill the graves after the war ended. She talked only briefly about the war. When we left her house she gave both Sara and I a big hug and kiss and gave Robert sandwiches for the road trip.
During the ride Robert talked about his favorite bands and how he got into Punk during the fall of communism. He also told us he studied French literature in Paris for three years and he met his Polish wife who was also studying abroad. It was a fun car trip even though I got a bit car sick.
Going to Aushwitz today. I want to see it first and then spend sometime doing more uplifting activities. More to come from Poland.
Sunday, October 12, 2008
Lyiv, Ukraine
They say Lyiv is the new Prague, the Florence of the East, or even comparable to Paris. All these comparisons are crass and a cheap way to attract tourist. It is a city of its own decadence. Lyiv has a rich history which is most noticeable in its architecture and churches (especially in the Armenian church). And even more fascinating is its the least Soviet city that I have visited in Ukraine.
The city center is popular amongst locals and has plenty of interesting museums along cobblestone roads. However, it is rough around the edges. If you travel outside the center you will be in contact with poverty, plenty of drunks, Romes, and busy roads with endless amounts of construction.
I walked around the city and went to the "Under Black Eagle" Pharmacy Museum filled with 8000 old bottles and formulas. The museum had a functional pharmacy that had been open since the 60's. The pharmacy itself was on the grounds of the old pharmacy that was run by a Ukrainian pharmacist named Mykhaylo Terletsky during the 1700's. I bought a bottle of the unique "Zalizne Vyno," or iron wine, which they make at the pharmacy from an ancient recipe.
There is an international theatrical festival called Golden Lion. I lucked out and got tickets to the Ukrainian ballet and watched a performance in the S. Krushelnytska Opera house.
I am leaving to Krakow tomorrow. They say that the border check takes about 3-4 hours if you take the bus or train. I am planning to walk across because its a lot faster and then I will hop on a bus on the Polish side. It will be an adventure.
The city center is popular amongst locals and has plenty of interesting museums along cobblestone roads. However, it is rough around the edges. If you travel outside the center you will be in contact with poverty, plenty of drunks, Romes, and busy roads with endless amounts of construction.
I walked around the city and went to the "Under Black Eagle" Pharmacy Museum filled with 8000 old bottles and formulas. The museum had a functional pharmacy that had been open since the 60's. The pharmacy itself was on the grounds of the old pharmacy that was run by a Ukrainian pharmacist named Mykhaylo Terletsky during the 1700's. I bought a bottle of the unique "Zalizne Vyno," or iron wine, which they make at the pharmacy from an ancient recipe.
There is an international theatrical festival called Golden Lion. I lucked out and got tickets to the Ukrainian ballet and watched a performance in the S. Krushelnytska Opera house.
I am leaving to Krakow tomorrow. They say that the border check takes about 3-4 hours if you take the bus or train. I am planning to walk across because its a lot faster and then I will hop on a bus on the Polish side. It will be an adventure.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Get there.
This past couple of days have been a whirlwind of traveling. I left Brasov, Romania to travel back to Bucharest and picked up the overnight train to Moldova. The sleeper train to Chrisnau, Moldova was cozy. On the train I looked for the town where Borat was filmed without any luck.I had one of the top bunks and slept incredibly well.Three other women were in the cart with me. We chatted for a bit and I fell asleep at midnight and only woke up for the passport checks at 3 (for Romania) and five (for Moldova).
The following day I took a bus to Odesa, Ukraine. I met two Americans who are working in the Peacecore in Moldova. They invited me out to see their village and stay with them for a couple of days. They said that Chrisnau's biggest festival called "Winefest" is this weekend. The Peacecore girls said I should come back to see them, which I eventually will if I decide to go back to Moldova.
Today, I am heading to Kiev. I already experienced Ukrainian life in the melting pot city of Odesa. Everyone here seems to speak several languages and no one is discriminative they all just seem to live peacefully. For example, the hostel owner is from Iraq lived in Germany for decades and now lives in Odessa with his Ukrainian wife.
The following day I took a bus to Odesa, Ukraine. I met two Americans who are working in the Peacecore in Moldova. They invited me out to see their village and stay with them for a couple of days. They said that Chrisnau's biggest festival called "Winefest" is this weekend. The Peacecore girls said I should come back to see them, which I eventually will if I decide to go back to Moldova.
Today, I am heading to Kiev. I already experienced Ukrainian life in the melting pot city of Odesa. Everyone here seems to speak several languages and no one is discriminative they all just seem to live peacefully. For example, the hostel owner is from Iraq lived in Germany for decades and now lives in Odessa with his Ukrainian wife.
Sunday, October 5, 2008
Bucharest and Brasnov Click here for Pictures
Finally. I made it to Bucharest. I had to put faith in the hostel that they got my email and my reservations were set. When I arrived 14 hours later I was happy to find that they did get the email and all was well.
Bucharest is not a charming city. This city has some bad rap for its shabby appearance. It seems all of the buildings are covered with advertisements. The advertisements don't discriminate what buildings they hit. It could be a block of communist buildings or architectural masterpieces. I would think the EU with all their strict guidelines wouldn't allow this, but maybe this applies only in cities with less corruption in their government. Thick black cables tangle the city's skyline. The city makes no attempt to hide these ugly cables for internet, tram, and so forth. It is a bit odd.
I once read that The Economist called Bucharest one of the most corrupt cities in the world. I did not witness this firsthand. Though, I did see the darker side of things. For instance, the stray dog problem is out of control. There are thousands of dogs strolling around the city.
It was hard finding charm in this rather charmless city. I did have some helpful Romanians direct me where to go, which made me believe the city would have been more appealing if I had a local as a guide. I wasn't alone. My travel companion was a wonderful Turkish girl who befriended me at the hostel. Ceran and I walked around and chatted about our countries. It was fun having her to talk to and I learned a lot about Istanbul. I think it might be my list of places to visit sometime.
Brasov. Transylvania, Romania.
I woke up today with the very ambitious idea that I was going to view all the castles around Brasov. It was pouring rain and lightning outside. I was woken up by Jill, my British companion for today. We walked outside and were soaking wet within minutes. We decided it would be best to rent a cab. Cabs in Romanian tend to be really reliable and super cheap. We went back to the hostel and found three more older Australians and along we went. Our first destination was Bran Castle. The castle that inspired Bran Stoker's Dracula. Vlad or Dracula rather was held for prisoner here for only a short while. The other castles were impressive, but there is a line to use the computer. More to come later.
Friday, October 3, 2008
Read this in an ad in Newsweek for international schools.
"I think having exposure to many ideas, politics, cultures, and ways of thinking can help me adapt my views on the world and finding my place in it. Meeting people with different backgrounds than my own means that I will inevitably learn from them. I want my background on culture to go further than my birthplace."
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